WILDROUTE

WildRoute

Field notes

Notes from the road, written between trips. The honest answers to the questions I get asked most, given away for free.

Raja Ampat and Sorong fires: what it changes for your trip

Sorong and Raja Ampat fires, October 2026: flight diversions, smoke, affected islands and practical travel advice. Latest verified updates.

How many days in Raja Ampat? Seven is the floor, ten is the trip

How many days you really need in Raja Ampat, why three or five days do not work, and what 7, 10, 15 or 21 days each give you. From my own trip.

Where to stay in Raja Ampat: homestay, eco-lodge or liveaboard

Three ways to sleep in Raja Ampat, what each one costs and who it is for. Why I chose a family homestay, and what to check before you pay for one.

Is Wayag open? No, and here is why

Wayag has been closed to visitors since July 2025, and it is still closed. What actually happened, why it has nothing to do with conservation permits, what is still open, and where to go instead.

Raja Ampat without diving: what you can actually see

Is Raja Ampat worth it if you do not dive? What you can see while snorkeling, what you miss, and how to choose the right island and homestay.

When to go to Raja Ampat: two seasons that matter

February and March are the best months overall, but it is the wind, not the rain, that decides your days. The seasons month by month, as I found them.